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In The Press

Showing 9 to 14 of 14 posts

Everlasting joy of climbing

  • 21.02.2013- by Ivan Lisica
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On 27th of January I did 4th ascent of superclassic  Il Marattoneta (8b+) in Paklenica, Croatia. It is famous, historic line and one of those which name speaks thousand words. I saw it first time in 1997., 10 years after Maurizio Zanolla Manolo did his epic first ascent and in period when route still didnt have any repeats. It looked unreal good, just like today and I was impressed by Manolo’s vision of the line. Altough I was 15 year old boy and didnt know much about climbing, I was sure this is kind of routes I want to climb and search for. In the following years I gave all energy to develop my climbing skills while Marattoneta saw first repeats by Slowenian aces Perko and Lukič. I took my chance to try it few times but couldn't offer much more than checking the moves. Last year we met again and I felt I was ready to climb it but summer temperatures and humidity shut me down. This is why I decide to come back in clear and cold winter days, my favorite part of the year. The daRead More...

My first 8a+ and the final hit in the Dolomites

  • 01.10.2012- by Ben Moon
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Last fall, when I did the Swiss/Italian route on Cima Ovest leading every pitch ground up onsight, I knew it was only the beginning of something bigger. I knew I had to keep exploring the routes in Tre Cime. The idea of trying to do three big routes in the Dolomites started to form in my head. What was growing on me was a sense that I really wanted to try and push myself on the walls of Tre Cime and in the Dolomites. An evolving process I knew that the routes I wanted to do in Tre Cime were much more demanding both mentally and physically compared to the Swiss route. In order to pull them off I would need to devote much more time to training than I usually do to get stronger. Normally I spend all winter and spring ice climbing and alpine climbing but this winter and spring of 2012 I devoted to staying in shape on rock, doing some indoor climbing as well as benefitting from excellent conditions in St Leger in February and March. The goal to do the trilRead More...

Donnafugat 750m 8a Torre Trieste

In the news and coming events

  • 02.05.2012- by Ben Moon
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Text by David Falt Some significant events have taken place lately. The american wonder girl Sasha Digulian sent her second 9a by repeating Chris Sharma's Era Vella, 9a in Margalef after six days of work. This is a stunning performance by any standards. Swedish Matilda Söderlund went to Spain on an virtual onsight rampage earning her headlines in a number of climbing magazines for her three 8b onsights and up on returning the other day she flashed a 8b+. MOON Climber Martin Keller sent his project "Der Mit den Fels Tanzt" fro witch Martin proposed 8C. Martin spent more that 100 days working the project. We at MOON Climbing are super happy for you Martin and we hope this send will inspire you to try new "impossible" project and turn them around and send them. In the category of stubborn super achievements we have to mention Catalan female climber Silvia Vidal's new route, Espiadimonis (6b, A4, IV+ 1500m) onRead More...

FA of "Der mit dem Fels tanzt, 8C"

  • 26.04.2012- by Martin Keller
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The summer was knocking on the door and i knew i had not many days left down there in chironico. Finally after 7weeks of falling on the very last move i managed to figure out the very last micro-beta-detail for the "fisch-project". After a painful week of wating for the rain to stop i was back down on the second dry day. And there it was, the perfect go!!! Everything went like it was suposed to and i had no power left for even more move when i did the rockover of the mantle. Thats how it feels when you climb on your limit -it was just perfect ;)


A long journey has come to a good end. After more Read More...

Martin Keller in the news

  • 26.04.2012- by Ben Moon
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Text by David Falt

Big Up to MOON Climber Martin Keller who dispatched his 3 year old project. Martin spent more than 100 days working the problem. The suggested grade is 8C and the name is Der mit dem Fels tanzt". If you are up for having a go you need to go to Chironico.



http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/martin

Showing 9 to 14 of 14 posts