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Moon Blog / Old website blog / Juri Chiaramonte Font Virgin

Juri Chiaramonte Font Virgin

After a long time I got something to write again. This summer was really bad climbing wise, as I didn’t have any time for it thanks to work and university. After a two-month break I started climbing again in the middle of August and found it to be very exhausting. The last week of August I drove to Croatian sea where I could combine swimming and climbing and my motivation came back.

In the beginning of September I was one of the official routesetters for the first stage of the European youth cup for bouldering in Meran. The competition was a success and luckily nobody was complaining.

After the competition my first time of Fontainbleau was right in front of me. Theoretically the second time, but the first time I drove home after three days of non-stop rain… without having touched a single hold. Well, that’s Font. After a 15-hour horror drive we arrived. Due to some problems with the cottage owner we had to spend our first night in a Formula 1 motel (thank god they exist). On the first day we went to Petit Bois to test the rock of Fontainebleau. I don’t know what it’s like for everybody else, but I was really blown away. I had never touched rock with structures, forms and of quality like this before. The climbing is fantastic and the boulders incredibly beautiful. Unfortunately it seemed to be a little too hot to try the more challenging stuff, and so we spent the day doing easier problems. That’s actually how the trip continued, ’cause the weather stayed rather hot. We still had a really good time. I didn’t climb anything hard, but I did a lot of problem up to 7a, as well as some classics like “Carnage assis”, “La Baleine”, “Cortomaltese” and even a whole red parcours! (they are really hard and super strenuous, aren’t they?). I got really close to some other classics as well, but the conditions and the skin (after a week of routesetting) weren’t in my favor. All in all I found the boulders up to 7a to be really challenging in comparison, and I think somebody should go tell the Bleausards that it’s not nice being embarrassed by a 60-year old… Even thenon-slab-compatible boulderers have a heart ;)

Right now I finally have more time for bouldering again and found back to my motivation. I have some trips in front of me, one leads me back to Font to settle old scores. Until then I’ll be dreaming of the unique sandstone and the superb problems!

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