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Climbing / School / Power Training

Power Training

Power or strength is one of the most talked about things in climbing. No climber can ever have enough strength and believe it or not its one of the most important things when attempting to push your grade. There are hundreds of ways to attempt to improve strength, some work well and some not so well, and others are pure myths. One thing is for certain, you will always get out what you put in, and so if you really want to get stronger then it’s for sure possible.

Throughout the Moon articles we aim to include several different methods for improving climbing specific strength, which will transfer onto the rocks or plastic. We intend to include detailed articles with advice on improving strength in all areas of the body, especially:

- Finger strength

- Arms and shoulders

- Body, body tension and core conditioning

To improve strength in these areas of the body we will include detailed explanations on using the following training equipment:

- Campus Boards

- Fingerboards

- System boards and system training

- Using bouldering walls

- Weight Training

We will also include exercises which require no specific equipment and can also help for climbing.

Our aim is to build up a whole library including everything you need to know about how to get strong and being able use your strength out on the rocks.

Basic principles of strength training

Training strength or power has some fairly simple rules which if followed will enhance your training benefits. Our articles will include relevant advice on the selected topics, but here are some basics to bear in mind when planning your training:

- Go for quality over quantity – once tired it is impossible to train strength or power efficiently.

- Go for small, more frequent sessions rather than massive sessions occasionally. An average training session should last no more than 2 hours but realistically should last about 1 _ hours, once warmed up.

- Be specific about what you want to achieve from your training session or cycle, there’s not much point doing a bit of everything in a session. It’s much more beneficial to concentrate on a specific area each session.

- It’s important to concentrate well when training so that you don’t make silly mistakes which may cause injury.

- Keep warm whilst training since you will only be doing a few reps and taking more rest than your average climbing session. Your body will cool down quicker which, once cold, will affect your performance.

- It’s important that you have a sufficient food intake before and after climbing to give you enough energy to train and to aid recovery. A bag of crisps before climbing and beer after will seriously affect your performance and decrease the benefits from your session.

- Plan your session beforehand so that you know exactly what you want to achieve. This will save wasting time once you have begun training.

We hope you enjoy the articles to follow and from the words of Sheffield bouldering Guru Ritchie Patterson, be good, and if you can’t be good, be strong.